Content of the material
- How to Allocate more CPU Power to a Program?
- How to Identify your RAM
- What is RAM?
- Does More RAM Mean Better Performance? We Guess …
- What Is Dual-Channel RAM?
- What are the benefits of having more RAM on your … …
- Office Productivity
- How much RAM do you need for gaming?
- RAM speed versus capacity
How to Allocate more CPU Power to a Program?
First, go to the task manager as discussed earlier. You can also use “Ctrl+Shift+Esc” as a keyboard shortcut for that. Under the “Processes” tab, right-click on the particular program. Now, from the pop-up window press on “Set Affinity”. That’s it.
In this article, we’ve discussed how to allocate more RAM to a program. You can apply these easy steps in Windows 10, 8, or 7. Allocating more RAM can help a lot for a smoother performance or while multitasking. These are also completely safe methods for your computer. Check these out if you’ve got sufficient memory yet facing problems on running a program within the available memory. If you are a gamer, then you can improve your gaming performance by using the Windows registry. After reading the whole article, now we hope that know about how to allow a program to use more ram. You can also check how to allocate more memory to Minecraft.
How to Identify your RAM
To properly identify your RAM you need to know the total memory size in Megabytes(MB), how many memory modules there are, the type of RAM you have, its speed and ideally its manufacturer. There are a number of different ways you can find some or all of this information.
Using Systeminfo.exe to see the total amount of RAM
Below are some free utilities that can be used to determine the amount of memory currently installed and the types of hardware installed:
- The Windows System Information command, as shown above, allows me to see how much total memory I have installed in my computer.
- SpeedFan allows me to check what RAM I have: Launching SpeedFan from its desktop icon reveals I have version 4.27 installed. The program takes a few seconds to gather information then settles down at the ‘Readings’ screen where it shows you fan speeds and component temperatures. Click on the ‘Info’ tab and click the ‘Read info’ button. This gathers information and displays it in the ‘DIMM info’ box. Scroll up and down to see all the information. As shown below SpeedFan tells me I have only one RAM stick (DIMM #0) and it is DDR, it does not store parity information, and the total size is 512MB. If I had more than one stick there would also be information for DIMM #1, DIMM #2, etc.
SpeedFan ‘DIMM info’ Box
- Now let’s have a look using Everest Home Edition: Start Everest, in the ‘Menu’ column on the left hand side click on ‘Motherboard’. The right hand window should change to show CPU, CPUID, Motherboard, Memory, SPD, Chipset and BIOS icons. Click on the cryptically named ‘SPD’ icon (for an explanation see the SPD entry in the previous section). As shown below this reveals a wealth of information. The single entry for ‘DIMM1’ under device description shows I only have one memory stick. The details below show a serial number, date of manufacture, size (512MB), type (DDR SDRAM), speed (PC3200) and other information including the Manufacturer’s name (Kingston Technology Company Inc.) and a link to their website. It incorrectly reports I have four DIMM slots when in fact my motherboard only has two. Note that Everest Home Edition is no longer under development and some of the information may be out of date.
Everest Memory Module PropertiesAdditional information about the Memory Controller can be found in the ‘Motherboard’ window by clicking on ‘Chipset’ and highlighting ‘North Bridge’. This will indicate for example whether the Memory Controller can support Dual Channelling, which you will need to consider if you are upgrading.
- Finally let’s check out our RAM using the freeware program CPU-Z. If you downloaded this from the address in the “Required Tools” section you will have a zip file somewhere in your computer. Extract the zip file to a directory called ‘CPU-Z’ or some name you can remember easily. That’s all you need to do, there is no installation process. To run CPU-Z navigate to the CPU-Z folder and double click the cpuz.exe file. This will run the program and present you with a report window which looks like this:
CPU-Z Opening ScreenWe’re interested in the RAM at present so click the ‘Memory’ tab. Here it tells me I have 512MB of DDR SDRAM on a single channel, running at 133MHz. It tells me the ratio of the FSB to the DRAM clock is 3:2 when I would have expected it to be 1:1 (I fixed this later – see under “Look in the BIOS” below). This tab also tells me the timing figures are 2-2-2-6 @133MHz. (See the ‘Memory Latency’ section for an explanation of these figures). Now click the ‘SPD’ tab. Information for Slot #1 is displayed, a pull down menu lets you select slot #2, slot #3, etc., which in my case say “Empty”. The rest of the display looks like this:
CPU-Z SPD ScreenWhich shows me my Kingston Value RAM has some pretty ordinary latencies at 200MHz, but otherwise doesn’t tell me anything new.
- Go to the Computer Manufacturer’s Website If you have a ‘brand name’ computer, most manufacturers websites allow you to search by model name or number and find detailed specifications of your system in its original condition. They often include FAQs and Support pages that will give you information about what memory is compatible and how to upgrade. Some of these are excellent and include videos of how to open your case and how to remove and/or add memory. Naturally they will usually only suggest their own brand name memory as an upgrade.
- Use an Online Configuration ToolMajor manufacturers and suppliers of RAM offer downloadable ‘Memory Advisor’ or ‘Configurator’ tools that can scan your computer, display the memory specifications and recommend a compatible upgrade. I’ll take a look at some of these in the “How to Upgrade your RAM” section.
- Look in the BIOSConsult your motherboard manual if you don’t know how to enter the BIOS – on most systems you press the ‘Del’ key as the system starts to boot. There are many different formats for the BIOS screen so I cannot be accurate about what options you may see available. On my own system I have American Megatrends Inc. BIOS (AMIBIOS) and clicking on ‘Standard BIOS Features’ showed ‘System Memory : 512MB’ with no other information. Looking under ‘Advanced BIOS Features’ >> ‘Advanced Chipset Settings’ >> ‘Northbridge Config’ I found “DRAM Frequency : 266 MHz” which is a manual setting, overriding what is stored in the RAM modules SPD. I changed this setting to ‘Auto’ so the BIOS would read the SPD for the recommended value. After booting I ran CPU-Z again and the bus ratios had changed to 1:1 and the memory frequency was now 200MHz. (Notice there is some confusion over what frequencies are which. Because the RAM is Dual Data Rate the memory bus runs at 200MHz in this example but the equivalent DRAM Frequency would now be 400MHz.)
- Open the Case and Read the LabelsA quick look inside the computer will tell you how many RAM sticks you have already. If nothing else will give you concrete information then you can power off the system, observe static handling precautions (see below) and remove the RAM already in there. If you are lucky the RAM stick(s) will have a label giving you appropriate information about the size, speed, manufacturer and possibly some warranty information. Some manufacturers are more cryptic than others and may only give you a part number. Some will have no label at all in which case you would have to track down information on individual memory chips using the part numbers printed on them. Following that process is beyond the scope of this tutorial.
What is RAM?
The term ‘RAM’ is an acronym for Random Access Memory, this is the memory that your computer uses to run its operating system and any applications that you start. The name means that the computer can access information held anywhere (i.e. at a random location) in RAM by addressing that part of the RAM directly. In other words if there is some information stored in the 1000th location in memory the system does not have to read the information in the preceding 999 locations to get there, instead it can access the 1000th location simply by specifying it. The alternative would be called sequential access, an example of which would be accessing information stored on a hard drive – the drive can only read the information which is currently passing underneath the read/write heads, so if an application wants information in say sector 14 of a certain track the drive has no option but to read all the information on that track. The drive electronics then separates out the information from sector 14 and returns that to the application, the information from the rest of the track is discarded. So RAM is the quickest way of organising information for retrieval. Why not have everything on your computer stored on RAM? The answer is cost and volatility – RAM costs far more per GB than a hard drive and most RAM requires power to maintain the information stored in it (It’s memory is “volatile”). If you had a RAM only computer you would have to reload the operating system and all your applications and data every time you switched off or there was a power cut. There are appropriate uses for this type of computer (e.g. thin clients) but generally a system is best served by a mix of RAM and Drive storage. Your computer needs different amounts of RAM for different tasks and the more applications you open the more RAM is required. You might think that sooner or later you will run out of RAM and then what? Well the operating system is designed to cope with that situation by ‘paging’ blocks of RAM to the Hard Drive. What that means is if the system is running out of RAM it takes the contents of a ‘chunk’ of RAM (usually the least used part) and writes it to a reserved area of the Hard Drive, called the Page File or Swap Space. The ‘chunk’ of RAM is then declared free for use. By using the swap space in this way the system normally never runs out of RAM. But as we have already discussed accessing information on the Hard Drive is inherently slower than accessing it from RAM so the result is the computer slows down. No-one likes a slow computer so what do you do about it? Obviously you want to add more RAM but to do this you need to match the additional RAM with what is already in your PC and you need to be sure your motherboard will support the kind of RAM you intend to use.
Does More RAM Mean Better Performance? We Guess …
While more RAM does make your computer performance efficient, it wouldn’t matter much to a person who is sparingly using space-hogging programs. For instance, if you’re running a single program of 200 MB at a time, the size of your RAM would be immaterial.
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What Is Dual-Channel RAM?
Many modern computers feature dual-channel memory. Dual-channel (or interleaved) mode allows the CPU’s memory controller to exchange data with RAM through two channels, reading and writing to two sticks of memory simultaneously. This increases the available bandwidth.
Dual-channel mode will be automatically enabled on most motherboards with only two DIMM slots. When using two sticks in a motherboard with four slots, however, the memory must be installed symmetrically to use the same channel. The slots are often color-coded, but may be either staggered or side-by-side. Check the motherboard documentation for more specific instructions.
For ideal performance, ensure every stick of memory has the same speed, capacity, and timings. Avoid mixing and matching different module specifications if possible.
RAM speed isn’t the only way to judge performance.
RAM timings are a measure of latency, or the delay before RAM can execute the commands it’s been given. Memory timings are given as a set of numbers, such as 16-18-18-36, which may be seen on the module’s factory sticker.
Each number corresponds to a specific test. The first number, for example, is CAS (Column Address Strobe) Latency—the number of clock cycles it takes for the memory module to return a set of data after a request from the memory controller.
Comparing RAM modules based on timings can be complicated. For instance, CAS Latency only states the total number of cycles; the duration of each cycle also matters when judging responsiveness. For example, DDR3 memory usually has a lower CAS Latency than DDR4, but performs worse due to its slower clock speed.
Memory timings aren’t usually a high priority consideration for a gaming PC. Timings are of interest to overclockers, who can manually lower timings in the BIOS, then test for stability. If successful, you can get better performance out of your existing RAM.
For most gaming PC users, RAM capacity and speed are the most important considerations.
If you’ve purchased high-performance RAM, overclocking can help you go beyond stock specifications. The easiest way to do this is through Intel® Extreme Memory Profile (Intel® XMP).
When an Intel® XMP profile is selected in the BIOS of a supported motherboard, it adjusts voltages, timings, and frequency to enhance performance. These predefined settings have been tested and certified for stability.
It’s also possible to tweak memory profiles on some motherboards, as well as fine-tune settings manually from the BIOS.
To get started, check out this in-depth guide on how to overclock RAM.
Aesthetics and Cooling
What are the benefits of having more RAM on your … …
This is simpler, easier to understand then most people make it. The cpu can only read data from ram, it can’t get it from the hard drive, this is a design choice, the hard drive is brutally slow, there’s no reason for accessing data directly from …
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While creating and editing documents is generally a low-resource task, office productivity gets much more demanding as you open multiple files in multiple programs. For this test we looked at various programs in Microsoft’s Office Suite, examining how large files stress memory as well as using multiple productivity programs at once. If you want to make the most of your multitasking, these are the tests to look at.
We started with smaller files in multiple programs, opening Word documents, Excel spreadsheets, PowerPoint presentations, PDF files and photos. Whether we had one Word doc open or 10 files open across 5 programs, working with standard small documents barely exceeded 5GB of memory in use, and never exceeded 7GB of memory in use and in standby.
MORE: Intel HD Graphics Guide
Large documents were another matter. We tested with a number of documents with upward of 1,000 pages. Whether looking at a single text file or a handful of documents (Word Docs, PDF, Text files) and larger Excel files (multiple sheets, each with 100+ columns of data), the memory usage ranged between 3,283 and 3,971 MB. The standby memory, however, jumped to nearly 10GB.
Key takeaway: You can do a lot of work with only 4GB of memory, but if you need to work with extremely large files, you’ll want to bump up to 8GB or more.
How much RAM do you need for gaming?
16GB of RAM is the best place to start for a gaming PC. Although 8GB was enough for many years, new AAA PC games like Cyberpunk 2077 have an 8GB of RAM requirement, though up to 16GB is recommended. Few games, even the latest ones, will actually take advantage of a full 16GB of RAM. Instead, the extra capacity gives you some wiggle room in running other applications while your games are running.
For the vast majority of gamers, 16GB is enough. However, if you plan on streaming or running multiple applications while your games are running — OBS Studio, a web browser, etc. — 32GB will give you a little more room. You won’t notice any performance benefits between 16GB and 32GB solely in games, however, so prioritize buying fast RAM if you’re only interested in gaming.
RAM speed versus capacity
While you won’t see any performance improvement by adding more RAM to your system if you already have what you need, the same cannot be said when it comes to RAM speed. Right now, DDR4 is the standard across desktops, laptops, and tablets. Each DDR generation has a range of speeds, with DDR4 starting with DDR4-1600 and ending with DDR4-3200. The number at the end notes the memory’s speed. The benefit of faster memory is simple: More cycles per second means the module can read and write data faster.
It’s not as simple as buying RAM sticks with a higher number, though. DDR4 memory modules are all rated to run at 2133MHz, and it doesn’t matter what modules you buy or what they’re rated for, they’ll run at 2133MHz out of the box. That presents a problem if you bought memory rated for 3200MHz. The speed your RAM is rated for is just that: a rating. That means the manufacturer has verified that the modules work at that speed, but it doesn’t mean they run at that speed out of the box.
Enter Intel Extreme Memory Profile (XMP). Instead of shipping at a faster speed, faster memory modules come with a profile on-board, and you can easily activate the profile through your motherboard’s BIOS. To be clear, we’re not talking about overclocking your memory past the recommended speed (it’s possible, though the performance benefits aren’t always worth the effort). We’re just referring to activating the speed your memory is rated for. It’s free performance, so it’s worth taking.
You need to make sure that your motherboard actually supports the memory speed your modules are rated for and that it supports XMP (most modern motherboards do). As for the performance benefit of faster memory, it really depends. Different applications react differently to faster memory, and there are even differences between Intel and AMD. However, if you bought faster RAM sticks or plan to buy them, you’ll want to enable the XMP profile in your BIOS to get the most out of your purchase.
This can be critical to performance depending on your configuration. AMD’s APUs, for example, perform much better in games when paired with fast DDR4 memory. Similarly, certain Intel chips, such as the Core i5-11400, take kindly to faster memory.